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Hellbender Journal Summer/Fall
2001
North Country Trail "Adventure"
By Kristen Ruether
The day before my hike,
I met a man from Philadelphia. When I told him about my upcoming
trip, he told me that he, too, had camped in the Allegheny. However,
he said he really didn't enjoy it.
"Why not?"
I asked.
"I heard gunfire
all night, and the chainsaws started at 5 am," he replied.
"Wow," I
said, "You must have felt like you were back in Philly!"
"Yeah," he
muttered. "Except for the chainsaws."
It was on this optimistic
note that I began my six-day trek across the Allegheny National
Forest portion of the North Country Trail.
I met Kirk Johnson
at Willow Bay, one mile from the New York state line. We camped
the first night at a spot inaccessible from a road along the massive
Allegheny reservoir. I was wondering if we were going to encounter
gunfire like the man from Philly. Sure enough, early in the evening,
I was jolted from my peace by a booming, rapid rat-a-tat echoing
across the forest. Thankfully, it was just the hairy woodpeckers,
trying to outdo one another by finding the hollow tree which resonated
the best.
Kirk informed me that
the Forest Service had plans for our small peaceful campground.
It plans to turn the NCT into a road for a distance in order to
drive in large construction equipment! The reason is ostensibly
to replace the john, but they will also expand the campground. This
ill-advised plan illustrates why the National Recreation Area designation
has its drawbacks... can't bulldoze a backhoe into Wilderness.
The second night, we
had another spot along the reservoir. I was wondering that evening
if we were going to encounter chainsaws in our trip. As we wearily
trudged into the camp, sure enough, I heard a deafening roar. Luckily,
it was the roar of spring peepers peeping from the lake.
I woke up that night
to a grunty noise, "Oo-ee-oo-ee-oo-ee". I sat up. Had
a prickly timber beast cornered us in the woods? With my bad vision
I could only see a stump-sized furball right outside my tent door.
Yikes! I whipped on my light and found another sort of prickly beast.
I clapped and the porcupine grunted and ran away. Both Kirk and
I had to get up later in the night to shoo her away from our packs.
Evidently porcupines will eat anything. Many of the metal NCT trail
markers were covered with tooth-marks and had their edges gnawed
off. I think the North Country Trail motto should be a friendly
porcupine holding a trail marker in her teeth.
The next day we were
joined by Dave Saville of West Virginia Highlands Conservancy fame.
Unfortunately he arrived just as we entered the oil and gas zone.
Although the trail is probably located in the most scenic parts
of the forest, it would be impossible to make a trail through the
forest without crossing oil and gas pipelines. The pipelines themselves
aren't so bad, it's the drilling areas. For gas, we get blue-painted
gizmos with blue pipes snaking from the earth. We could smell gas
around almost all of these wells. For oil, it's the classic grasshopper
pump. There was also a foul smell around many of these machines.
There were several sites where water near the drills had a rainbow
sheen. The worst part is that every drilling site has a road.
Dave stopped us along
a beautiful forest stream in the oil and gas zone to teach us about
stream ecology. It turns out he has a hidden past life of teaching
stream ecology at a college in West Virginia. We upturned rocks
to admire mayfly, stonefly and caddisfly larvae. These "shredders"
introduce energy to the entire stream by breaking down the leaves.
This is a very important function, in case you were still on the
fence about the wisdom of West Virginia mountaintop mining, which
buries these upper streams under tons of rubble.
In case anyone doesn't
know how incredible caddisflies are, allow me to tell you. The larvae
make cases out of stream debris to shelter themselves. Each species
uses a different material in a different way. The cases are incredible.
Just in one spot we saw cases made of perfectly circular leaf cut-outs
neatly stacked in three walls to make a triangular tube; cases made
of neatly lined up hemlock needles; cases of long sticks glued together
to make a tube; and pebble cases made of various sizes of pebbles.
Dave has a friend who puts caddisflies in aquariums with precious
gem pebbles. The caddisflies make precious gem cases, then fly away
leaving him with shiny tubes of caddis cases which he sells as jewelry.

The forest after the
oil and gas zone was especially beautiful, with the trail meandering
along small creeks. I did see my first big shelterwood logging unit.
What a mess. All these magnificent trees chainsawed to the ground,
including a massive grandma beech, to make room for the cherry to
fatten up. I was especially distraught to notice all the logging
debris on the ground. After all, the helpful Forest Service cartoon
of shelterwood logging, as printed in their propaganda and reprinted
in this journal, has no slash on the ground. I guess I should have
read the fine print.
Our last day of hiking
brought us through the project area for the Duck-Sheriff timber
sale, to be logged sometime soon. This sale illustrates the Forest
Service's commitment to preserving the beauty of the NCT... the
units are right along the trail.
Our time ran out after
65 miles and we hopped off near the Heart's Content and inhaled
large quantities of food at a greasy spoon in Sheffield. The Allegheny
was much more beautiful than I thought. I had expected mile after
mile of clearcuts, cherry plantations, and oilfields. In case there's
anyone else out there like me, postponing that backpack on the Allegheny
because of reading too many depressing articles in the Hellbender
Journal... just go for it!
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